Hadley's tucked-away Korean haven
By Carolina Dallal, Arts and Living Editor
Oft-cited advice when searching for a good restaurant is to ignore appearances, and that the least-attractive places often serve the best food. That was certainly the case with Gohyang, a Korean restaurant on Route 9.

The restaurant itself was both difficult to find and a little disappointing in appearance. The obscure little box that sits on the side of the road, however, serves fresh, delicious Korean dishes that are both light and satisfying, leaving one feeling comfortably full.

The interior of the restaurant was quite dainty. There were only about five or six tables, with two other tables separated for a more traditional eating style. Patrons were asked to take off their shoes before entering that area, where they sat on the floor on small carpets while eating. 

The overall appearance of the restaurant was not particularly stunning. The tables were close together, the floor needed repair and the lighting was poor, but the food compensated for the environment. The entire space was filled with the aroma of spices and dishes that were being prepared and served.

The menu was not large, but offered a nice selection of meals and appetizers, including rice, noodle, seafood, meat and soup and broth dishes. For those who are sensitive to spicy food, they offered variations in the level of spice, ranging from medium to hot to very hot. Furthermore, all the dishes could be converted into vegetarian meals simply by having the egg, meat, fish or chicken omitted, with the choice of tofu offered as a replacement. Hot tea was served as soon as we were seated and was refilled continually, which was a welcome addition to our meal. 

Gohyang had a wide array of appetizers. Our choice was the Duk Bok Ki, a spicy broiled rice cake with vegetables that was unusual, but very good. Soft little columns of rice had been cooked in a sweet sauce with carrots and onions. The portion was just right for two fairly hungry people, and was served without delay. The Duk Bok Ki was among the lightest of the appetizers, others generally containing beef and chicken. 

The list of entrees was plentiful, and most of the dishes looked excellent. Making a decision was tricky, but I finally decided on the Bulgogi, thin slices of tender beef cooked with onions and carrots. The meat was flavorful and not spicy at all-which is somewhat unusual for Korean dishes. The seasoning was subtle and interesting, with tinges of various sweet and salty flavors. 

My friend Kathryn decided on a dish called Jap Chae. Jap Chae is stir-fried vermicelli-like noodles prepared with vegetables and meat, but  Kathryn ordered it as a vegetarian dish by requesting tofu instead. I purloined a bite, and it was actually quite tasty, though definitely blander than the Bulgogi or the Duk Bok Ki.

Perhaps the best part of the meal was the quantity of side dishes that were served with our entrees. Smaller bowls were placed around our main plates containing a variety of seasoned vegetables. There were cucumbers, potatoes, cabbage, bean sprouts and other vegetables that were not, for the most part, very spicy. They added much variety to the meal, and the attentive staff kept them in constant supply. 

Overall, eating at Gohyang was one of the better gastronomic experiences I have had. The service was excellent, the food delicious, and it was reasonably priced. I would strongly recommend it to anyone.

Issue 16, Submitted 2003-02-13 10:04:08