I always thought Germany and Amherst were separated by an ocean. But in West Springfield, a city composed primarily of strip malls and fast-food chains, I was quickly proven wrong. It's difficult to imagine that authentic German cuisine could be available in West Springfield, in a traditional ancienne Europe atmosphere no less. But upon entering the beer-stein-laden main dining room of Hofbrauhaus, my senses were awakened. The waitresses wear full German attire, straight down to their lederhosen, and the men stand tall and proper. The restaurant is even run with German efficiency.

Hofbrauhaus, established in 1935, boasts a predominantly German menu with a few hints of French influence (Veal Cordon Bleu, among others). It's like the Alsace-Lorraine region under German control-well, almost. What is eminently clear about Hofbrauhaus, though, is that it doesn't ignore either the German or French tradition of drinking. Considering the plentiful and impressive wine and beer list, it's important to go with a designated driver.

While this column tends to stick to the cuisine of most restaurants, I would be remiss to not spend a few words on the fine beer list that Hofbrauhaus offers. The list is primarily a combination of German and Belgian beers, with some unexpected, but equally pleasant foreign extractions (Sam Smith from England, Rebel from the Czech Republic). My favorites of the bottled brews (there are also a wide variety of beers on tap), include Duvel ($4.75), a full bodied, dry Belgian beer that is fermented in the bottle and known for its head. Schneider Weisse, from Bavaria, is also a good choice. It's tan-bodied with a slightly sweet and richly flavorful taste.

While it's almost worth the journey for the beer alone, Hofbrauhaus doesn't disappoint when it comes to the food, providing tasty victuals in its three dining rooms. The menu is extensive and offers up several specials and seasonal game. The variety of choices leave the diner with a difficult, but pleasantly so, decision. The appetizers range from seafood such as Clams Casino ($7.25), Chilled Shrimp ($10.00) and Fresh Oysters Rockefeller (topped with a creamed spinach filling and with Pernod, $7.25) to more classically German fare such as the Bavarian Wurst Platte ($5.25) or the Sauerkraut en Backtieg, deep fried sauerkraut, corned beef and cheese formed into balls ($4.99). The Clams Casino were quite good, though surpassed by the special appetizer, Venison Sausage, five small sausages served in a thick and creamy sweet brown sauce. Thinly chopped scallions and sliced nuts in the sauce added to the texture and flavor, making it a very pleasant opening to our meal.

All entrees come with a house salad (though there is the option to get a Caesar salad for the table), which provides a relatively simple and mellow flavor between the strongly accented appetizers and entrees. It is worth noting that although the entrees are large, there is a plate sharing charge of $7.00, so splitting isn't particularly practical- I'd suggest eating your fill and then taking home a doggy bag. Doggy bags at Hofbrauhaus, as with nearly everything else, have their own special touch: they come wrapped in tin foil shaped like a swan. It's almost worth not finishing your meal. Almost.

Entrees are also quite varied. If you feel the need to splurge, the Kalbshaxen ($25.99), a whole veal shank, is a monstrous and impressive piece of meat. For those that are hungry but a little daintier, the Filet Mignon ($24.50), Rack of Spring Lamb ($25.95) and New York Sirloin ($24.50) are all good options. But while beef is an important part of the Hofbrauhaus menu, it is not the only way to go. Hofbrauhaus serves up impressively tasty game to those willing to take a risk. The Grilled Boneless Duck Breasts ($19.95) are drizzled with a raspberry liquor sauce and are wonderfully flavorful and tender at the same time. The duck comes in circularly sliced pieces, the outside covered with spices and the inside juicy and rich in flavor. I ventured to try the Ostrich Fillet, sliced pieces of ostrich cooked medium-rare. Ostrich is truly an exquisite meat, and it is surprising that more restaurants don't add it to their menus. The only danger is that the meat can be easily overcooked, or might be tough to begin with. Not so at Hofbrauhaus. With the benefit of a slightly sweet sauce, the Ostrich Fillet was perhaps the best of the entrees I sampled.

For those looking for more traditional German fare, there are plenty of options as well. The Kassler Rippchen ($14.95), smoked loin pork chops, has an enjoyable, albeit acquired taste, with a salty undertone. Wiener Schnitzel ($14.95) is, of course, prominent on the menu, and recommended humbly as "Vienna's Gift to the World." There are also five "Bavarian House Specialties" that adorn the menu. Among these, Sauerbraten ($13.50), marinated beef roast in a spicy sweet and sour sauce, is particularly tasty. Shrimp Curry had too much of a stretch to warrant tasting.

All the dishes come with a combination of sides dishes. The sides include a mediocre weinkraut, scrumptious spatzle and sweet lingonberries. The two most notable sides are the sweet red cabbage, which despite a slightly excessive amount of cinnamon, comes off deliciously; and a rather dry and impotent wild rice, worth avoiding.

The dessert cart is filled with plenty of choices, though by the end you'll most likely be too full to even bother. We opted for one apple strudel with four forks, and despite the fresh whipped cream and a nice scoop of ice cream, I can't say that I was enthralled by it. The strudel is perhaps a bit too sweet, though its warm body nicely complements the cool ice cream.

Hofbrauhaus isn't your average Western Massachusetts eatery, that's for sure. It's certainly well worth the twenty-five minute drive from Amherst for a change of pace and a delicious meal. Just don't expect to be in downtown Berlin when you walk outside.

Rating: 46 out of 50.

Hofbrauhaus, 1105 Main Street, West Springfield, MA, serves dinner Monday through Saturday and lunch Tuesday through Friday. It also offers catering and private party services. (413) 737-4905.