When I asked Circa's co-owner Eizabeth Ferno about her husband, Circa chef Dane Boryta, one thing became clear: "he loves cooking." The couple moved from San Francisco about two years ago and, since arriving in Northampton, have opened up a small but elegant French bistro. Chef Boryta has no formal culinary training, but his desire to cook and his deep knowledge of the chef's palate help to form a creative, lively menu well worth exploring. At a time when Congress is renaming the french fry the "freedom fry" (even "des frites de liberté" sounds better to my ear), Jacques Chirac has become a poster board for corporate pacifism and French culture is being pushed aside in America, it's nice to remember that in spite of their politic woes, the French have always done one thing right: food. Circa is both a wonderful taste of good French cuisine and a breath of fresh air for an area that boasts very few authentic French restaurants.

Circa boasts an alluring menu. It is small, but so is the restaurant, and often a small menu allows a chef both the time to perfect dishes and the flexibility to tinker with the menu. Chef Boryta does both. The menu has new additions from time to time, and specials are common. The ability to offer specials gives the restaurant the opportunity to take advantage of seasonal highlights, allowing New England flavors and game (a quail entrée was one special offered) to reach the menu.

The appetizers at Circa reflect a mix of French traditionalism with creative flair. The French classics include a Bouillabaisse ($9.25) with Halibut, Prince Edward Island Mussels and Prawns in a Saffron-White Wine-Fennel Broth. A top choice is the Vol-au-vent aux Fromages ($8.75), a light circular pastry containing Roquefort, Chèvre and Brie and topped with a sweetly pungent red onion jam. The dish is beautifully presented-as are most of the dishes at Circa-with the help of a balsamic reduction. A Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras ($10.75) is also on the menu, accompanied by Brioche. Two salads are offered, but with options like Snow Crab Stuffed Tiger Prawns ($9.00), it's better to come with an empty stomach. The one slight disappointment was a special, the seared Ahi Tuna. The tuna was encrusted in an interesting array of spices, and served with sweet cherry tomatoes and diced onions, a good combination. Unfortunately, the tuna was slightly overcooked so that the interior of the slices had lost its rich color and begun to turn pink, and the exterior crust had become a little too hard. Nonetheless, the dish represented an interesting variation on Chef Nobuyuki Matsuhisa's "New Style Sashimi."

The entrees, like the appetizers, tend to be rich in flavor and heavy on the stomach. That said, it's worth it. Despite the temptation of several meat dishes-Grilled Beef Tenderloin, in a Portobello Mushroom Sauce ($22.00); Grilled Lamb Sirloin in a Rosemary Jus ($19.25)-we opted for the Duck Two Ways ($20.00) and Pistachio Crusted Alaskan Halibut ($19.75). The duck, as advertised, came in two forms: seared slices of breast and a confit leg. The most notable feature of the duck dish was the exquisite Vanilla-Merlot sauce, an interestingly sweet and flavorful combination and a richer taste than is usually found in a duck dish. The only limitation of the dish is that it can be a little too much. Confit, a process of slowly cooking meat in its own fat, tends to produce a very rich and heavy meal, and the sheer amount of meat offered is perhaps a little more than one could ask for. Then again, who can complain about getting too much?

The halibut, on the other hand, proved to be a nice alternative, much lighter in flavor yet still complex in taste. The pistachio crust matched well with the fish's naturally quieter tones.

For vegetarians there is an Aparagus-Shiitake Tartlet ($16.50) with toasted pine nuts, leeks and chèvre. Circa's menu accommodates most eating styles, and the waitresses and owner are quite helpful in helping diners make informed decisions without pushing certain dishes. Attentiveness is a particularly nice element of the restaurant, and emblematic of the type of eating experience you will have at Circa.

There is also a variety of dessert choices. We opted for the Chocolate Torte. The torte was good, if a bit dry, and topped with delicious fresh whipped cream interlaced with thinly sliced tangerine rinds-an excellent addition. Also notable is Circa's selection of dessert wines, a nice asset to a well-balanced menu, and something rarely found in the Pioneer Valley. While none of the dessert wines stand out, there are a good number of medium range selections that provide a nice close to the meal. The dessert wines compliment a more accomplished wine list, which, though a bit overpriced (the wines generally run from $25-45 per bottle), offers a good selection. There are also many wines available by the glass.

Circa, buried deep in Northampton, is well worth a visit. Whle French food is highly regarded worldwide, the French aren't known for their "politesse." Fortunately, in the Pioneer Valley, we have an outlet for haute-cuisine and a friendly atmosphere-Circa.

Rating: 47 out of 50

Circa is located on 57 Center St., Northampton. (413) 586-2622