The restaurant isn't large-in fact it's not much more than a storefront with a couple of booths, a few free-standing tables and a small area where one can sit on pillows on the floor. The interior isn't "cool," but it's not ugly either. The decor serves its purpose: not to distract diners from the food. The walls are covered with words of gratitude and the names of appreciating five-college students and Pioneer Valley residents. There's no doubt that the Kims take care of you here.
For those who aren't familiar with Korean food, it thrives on three fundamentals. First and foremost: kimchi. Kimchi refers to a variety of pickled Korean vegetables that range in spice and flavor, and makes up the largest component of ban chan, or side dishes, an essential part of any Korean meal. Spicy pickled cabbage (tongbaechu gimchi) is the most notable-and perhaps the best-but make sure to try everything from seaweed to pickled cucumbers. They are all good at Gohyang and a wonderful compliment to the flavors of Korean main courses. Kimchi has been a main component of Korean cooking for hundreds of years, though it only became spicy during the Chosun Dynasty when fiery spices were brought to the region. In Korea, making kimchi to prepare for the winter is a popular family tradition during late fall. At Gohyang, like at nearly all Korean restaurants, kimchi will be brought to your table free of charge with your main courses along with the other ban chan dishes, so don't feel as if you need to ask.
The second element of Korean cooking is the assortment of soups and casseroles. At Gohyang, these dishes are good, but sometimes lack flavor. The Bibim Bap ($8.95), beef and vegetables covered with fried egg and served in a stoneware pot with rice flavored with sesame oil, is perhaps the most appealing of the casserole type dishes. Either the Yookgae Jang ($8.95), a spicy broth with beef and vegetables, or the Kimchi Chigae ($8.95), a kimchi soup with tofu and sliced pork in a stoneware pot, are the best of the soups. The soups are particularly nice on a cold winter day when their spiciness combines with the warmth of the liquid to produce a startling and refreshing effect on the body.
The third element of Korean cooking is barbecue. Korean restaurants that specialize in barbecue will have miniature stoves right on the table to cook the meat. While Gohyang doesn't provide that opportunity, it does offer a worthwhile Bulgogi ($11.95), tender slices of beef with vegetables. The result is somewhat sweet, and quite good over rice. Another appealing dish is Jang Uh Guyi ($14.95), grilled eel in a house sauce.
There are other standout dishes on the menu. Jap Chae ($8.95) is a dish made up of sweet thin glass noodles cooked with vegetables and beef. They are a great compliment to the spiciness of the kimchi and the heaviness of the meat and rice dishes. And while the Vegetable Bokum ($8.95), a mixed vegetable dish with a choice of tofu, shrimp or chicken, isn't anything revolutionary, it brings good spices and flavor over rice.
It's odd to mention appetizers last in a food review, but fully appropriate in the case of Gohyang as they are neither emphasized nor necessary. The Pa Jun ($8.95), a Korean scallion pancake, and the Hea Mul Pa Jun ($10.95), the same thing with seafood, are the only appetizers worth ordering. While the prices may seem high, they are both good and come in large portions; they can easily replace a main course. Other appetizers include mediocre shumai ($7.95), Japanese dumplings, and other dishes less important to your dining experience.
What can be assured is that by the time you reach your melon or peach Korean sucking candy at the end of the meal, you will feel warm and happy. The Kims will have taken good care of you. The soothing barley tea will have relaxed you. The complexities of the flavors and spices will have enticed you. You may want to walk over to the small, yet well-stocked Korean grocery the Kims run next door. Or you may just put your name up on the wall. Either way, it feels like home.