Over the past decade or so, Thai cuisine has become an enormously popular and chic dining option. Though I am not one who usually follows the crowd consensus, I have been something of a Thai food addict ever since I had my first taste of the ubiquitous Pad Thai. Therefore, I was delighted to stumble across Thai Corner during one of my many strolls through downtown Amherst. A small sign next to Antonio's Pizza on Pleasant Street points the way to this popular "hole in the wall," leading hungry patrons down an incredibly narrow alley (single file!) to Amherst's only Thai restaurant. Of course, you could just enter from the Boltwood Drive parking lot, but where's the adventure in that? Regardless of how you find Thai Corner, this small establishment is a pleasing discovery to anyone who craves the flavors of lemongrass, coconut milk, hot chilies and kaffir lime leaves.

Though Thai food in America has recently been seen as oh-so-"Sex and the City," I am pleased to report that Thai Corner is a dive in the truest sense of the word: the bi-leveled restaurant is plainly decorated with Formica tables, linoleum floors and white walls adorned with little decorative objects from Thailand. Though the place may feel a bit sterile, one is too distracted by the aromas emanating from the kitchen to care about the restaurant's interior design.

More impressive was the extensive menu, which offers a myriad of appetizers, soups, noodle dishes, curries and house specialties. My party and I started the evening with the Thai Spring Rolls ($3.50 for three), which consisted of toothsome cabbage and carrots in a somewhat crunchy crust. While this whetted our appetites, the spring rolls were not quite crunchy enough and could have benefited from more time in the fryer. But the flavor was right, especially when accompanied by a sweet and spicy sauce accented with red pepper flakes.

For our main course, we decided to eat family style, and the staff was accommodating to our request. Although it is old hat, we could not resist ordering two Pad Thais, one chicken ($7.50), and one shrimp ($8.50). Overall, the dish was rather good, especially the large, plump shrimp. While tasty, the noodle dish was a little too sweet and seemed to lack textural contrast (there were not enough peanuts or bean sprouts to give the dish a satisfying crunch). The Pad Thai, however, was more distinguished than the Ramagarden ($7.50), a soupy noodle dish of peanuts and coconut milk . Much better was our order of Green Curry with Beef ($7.50), a flavorsome mélange of coconut milk, hot green chilies and lemongrass all lending flavor to tender pieces of beef and crunchy vegetables. Also likeable was the Thai Corner Rice with shrimp ($8.50), a variation on fried rice that was savory and featured the same delicious shrimp as the Pad Thai. At the table the Chicken Cashew ($8.99) was popular, though I found the pineapple and sauce to be a little too Trader Vic's for my liking.

Thai Corner has a liquor license, which is a shame because their beer and wine selection isn't really coordinated with the dishes they serve. With its casual atmosphere and affordable, tasty food, this place would be even better as a BYOB establishment. Even so, their wine list is affordable, with no beverage costing more than $5. Aside from alcoholic beverages, Thai Corner also serves a selection of soft drinks as well as their own Thai Iced Tea, a sweet beverage of tea and evaporated milk.

The service at Thai Corner is friendly and accommodating, even when the restaurant gets crowded, which it frequently does on weekends. If you have a large party (or even a small one) it is advisable to call ahead for a reservation to guarantee seating. Thai Corner is a great neighborhood dining option that is affordable and much more appetizing than the two Chinese restaurants in town. With most dishes costing less than $10, it is hard not to be satisfied with this restaurant. Though many of the dishes could have a used a heavier hand in seasoning, I think everyone in my party went home with their appetites satiated. With Thai Corner, you can't go wrong!