the flaming chef: a food column
By Craig Libman
Don't we all scream for ice cream? I know I do. Especially when the weather heats up, and I need to cool down. In fact, I can barely write this article without craving a creamy, rich spoonful of Butter Pecan or the cool freshness of Mint Chocolate Chip. Fortunately for all of us here, Massachusetts is a state that takes its ice cream seriously. The state's countryside is dotted with dairy farms that make some of the freshest and creamiest ice cream in the nation. Furthermore, Boston has a long history of ice cream innovations. Steve's, the original Boston chain started by Steve Herrell, was the first shop to popularize the idea of adding mix-ins such as candy and nuts in front of the customer on a slab on the counter.

The Pioneer Valley, of course, is no exception. Over the past week I have had the opportunity to sample some of the area's best ice cream shops and have yet to find a scoop that didn't make me smile. Originally, I was going to do a scientific survey of each place, comparing each shop based on the same ice cream flavor or sundae. Unfortunately, I abandoned this idea when my whims took hold of my judgment.

Herrell's: Herrell's, simply put, is ice cream heaven. Located in Northampton, Herrell's is the brainchild of Steve Herrell, the ice cream genius who founded Steve's in the '70s. Words can barely do this place justice. I remember walking into Herrell's for the first time on a cool night and getting hot and bothered over the scrumptious flavors and toppings. For my first Herrell's experience, I ordered a hot fudge sundae with their ultra-premium vanilla and finished off with chocolate whipped cream. This dessert was everything I'd imagined and more. The ice cream was rich, thick and super creamy, almost like a frozen custard. Even more amazing was the hot fudge, which was homemade and really tasted like dark chocolate (unlike the canned variety which tastes more like artificial, chocolate-flavored corn syrup). But most impressive was the homemade whipped cream, available in either chocolate or vanilla flavors (not a Reddi-Wip can in sight!). With varieties like Hostess Cupcake and Burnt Caramel Sugar, Herrell's does not disappoint. I only wish I could've tried more!

Flayvors: Flayvors earns the second-place ribbon in my taste test. Located at Cook Farm in Hadley (on the country road past Wal-Mart), Flayvors offers fresh ice cream and dairy products made from their very own cows. For my first visit, I opted for a scoop of strawberry on a cone, which tasted as though the cream had come straight from the udder (it was udderly delish!). Also great was their peppermint stick, which featured crushed candy canes in the ice cream. With honest-to-farm goodness and high-quality ingredients, Flayvors can impress even the most jaded ice cream connoisseur.

Bart's Ice Cream: Strategically situated next to a Chinese restaurant in downtown Amherst, Bart's has been delighting people with its ice cream for over 20 years. Bart's ice cream is the homemade, super-premium variety that marks Herrell's and Flayvors, and is quite good, if not as consistently as its competition. During my trip to Bart's I tried the chocolate raspberry mousse, which was tasty, but not mind-blowing. My big problem with Bart's is that the ice cream often has ice crystals in it, thus marring the consistency of the product. Still, if a trip to Herrell's is too far, I recommend this joint, if only to hang out with the cool cow statue inside!

Ben and Jerry's: Though it may be a newcomer to Amherst, most people know all there is to know about this excellent chain. If you like Ben and Jerry's by the pint, chances are, you'll like it here, in all its kooky flavors. Though it has become very popular recently, I often feel guilty because I prefer to support local, independent businesses. The contest between Bart's and Ben and Jerry's is a toss-up, but I usually opt to go local. And with such great places as the three listed above, there seems to be no shortage of locally hand-crafted ice cream to delight us all.

Issue 24, Submitted 2005-04-20 16:11:23