And we mean distant. This former taco stand way down King St. isn't even walking distance from its relatives, the other Spoleto family restaurants: Spoleto, Del Raye and Pizzeria Paradiso. Despite its distance from "downtown" NoHo, Express' lack of proximity has its advantages. For one thing, parking is easy. For another, the prices are more Western Mass. than New York. How? Spoleto Express does away with the formalities of its older cousin. Say goodbye to waiters, linen napkins, a wine list and metal silverware (if you come at the wrong time-Nick used plastic utensils).
What Spoleto Express does offer is a modern-looking and attractive space, like Spoleto. Make no mistake, though: You're not eating Spoleto food quickly (and cheaply); you're eating a small but varied menu of Italian standbys at very reasonable prices.
In keeping with tradition, we ordered a lot of everything. So much, in fact, that we had to put various "courses" (and we use this term loosely, since there didn't appear to be much rhyme or reason to the order in which they came out of the kitchen) on a nearby empty table.
The pizza was cause for disagreement. It looked like a deep-dish pie, but its bottom was crispier than it looked. Nick ordered a slice of the mixed deli pizza ($3.25), which boasts the largest pepperoni slices this side of Naples. They were spicy and greasy, and he much preferred them to the sausage on top of them. The cheese was good, too. Sarah agreed, more or less, after tasting her cheese slice ($2.50), but our friend Dan was disappointed by the heavily layered margherita toppings ($3.25).
Sarah and Dan shared a Caesar salad ($3.95 for a small) that was satisfactory (how many Caesar salads are life-altering?); Nick had an above-average mixed greens salad with a creamy balsamic vinaigrette. All the while, the trio noshed on first-rate stuffed garlic bread topped with melted mozzarella; stay away from the bland table bread, as the garlic bread is worth the $3.95. (Gorgonzola, focaccia and rustic Italian varieties are also available.)
For $6.95, Nick selected from the "Let's go halves" menu: a half portion of any soup or salad on the menu accompanied by a half of any wrap, panini, baguette or a slice of pizza. The signature panini, with breaded chicken, fresh mozzarella, oven-dried tomatoes and two types of mayo, was superb, the chicken reminiscent of a scallopine and the tomatoes a nice complement to the pesto mayo.
The hot entrees portion of the menu, from which Sarah and Dan ordered, is limited to Italian basics (chicken parm, lasagna, spaghetti and meatballs, etc.). They chose the pesto alfredo ($9.95) and added "blackened chicken" for an additional $2. The portion was enormous-creamy pesto sauce topped a mountain of De Cecco penne. (At any rate, it was not homemade.) The chicken wasn't blackened but it delivered on its promise of protein. All in all, the dish was satisfactory.
Perhaps most importantly for the cash-starved college student, neither Nick nor Sarah nor Dan finished what was on their respective plates. And that counts for something, doesn't it?
So why (or why not) go all the way to Northampton when Pasta e Basta is right around the corner? Sarah would tell you not to bother–unless you're already in Northampton or you're craving a change of scenery.
Meanwhile, the men, as they like to be called, found the less assembly-line, less bustling atmosphere of Spoleto Express worth the trip, even with gas prices hovering around $3. (Nick liked the "mood lighting" as well.)
Lest you think the gender divide is intractable, both sides did agree that Spoleto Express would be a really clever way to fool a date into joining you at "Spoleto."