We arrived at Fernandez Family Restaurant (161 High St.)-a thriving lunch-only restaurant and catering company entering its third decade in downtown Holyoke-at 12:30 p.m. So too did a half dozen servicemen (presumably from nearby Westover Air Force Base). Not seeing a menu, we approached the counter and awaited instruction from the friendly server. She identified the various unlabeled dishes; we, in turn, stepped out of line so as not to annoy the three regulars behind us.
As we prepared to order, the server explained that we could choose either small or large portions ($5.95/$6.95). We're not sure which we received or if we paid the right amount, but none of us spent more than $8, our plates were heaping, and that's good enough for us.
Both small and large portions include a meat item, an order of rice and one side dish. There were at least six meat dishes, two types of rice and three starchy vegetable sides from which to choose, along with a selection of fritters ($1.25 apiece).
Just moments later, in a slight daze after the decision-making process, we seated ourselves at one of the many comfortable, spaced-out tables in the front of the restaurant, which is a cross between a cafeteria and a banquet hall. Staring at the immense platters in front of us, we wished we had gotten our food in take-out containers-there were certainly going to be leftovers.
As it turned out, we needn't have worried; we ate most, if not all, of what was put before us. First to go was Sarah's sorullito de maiz con queso-sweet cornmeal and cheese fritter. (From here on, we won't bother with the Spanish names; we just wanted to prove that we were paying attention.)
Anyone who enjoys sweet corn cakes at a Mexican restaurant will love this version; it boasts all the sweetness-only with cheese inside a fried shell. In other words, it's pretty much the unhealthiest thing on the planet, as well as the perfect snack. Nick and Dan tried the shredded chicken fritter which was equally unhealthy-think deep-fried taco-and almost as delicious.
By contrast, Sarah's meat dish was disappointing. Inside the display case, the large loins of roast pork were tantalizing, and watching the server pull the meat from the bone made our mouths water. Separated from the bone, however, the meat was moist but flavorless. (Mi Tierra it was not.)
You'd never guess that Dan's dish came from the same pig. His ribs were tender and, though unadorned by sauce, they left a sweet taste in our mouths. This was the only item we wished had come in a larger portion, as Dan's a big guy, and two ribs just didn't cut it.
Nick, however, is not as big a guy, so a chicken breast and a drumstick suited him just fine, thank you very much. The chicken was succulent, infused with island herbs and spices.
Emily's beef was nearly as juicy, and definitely as flavorful, but this was not Grade A Angus beef. Gristly and gray in color, it was the only meat that went unfinished.
Luckily for Emily, she ordered cassava (also known as yucca) on the side. Thanks to a touch of hot sauce, the root vegetable packed a punch, and we were also pleased by its mealy consistency, which was reminiscent of boiled potatoes.
That probably doesn't sound appealing; alas, although we have written many a food column, sometimes words fail us. (Yes, even us.) Order the cassava.
As expected, the two types of rice we sampled (yellow rice with pigeon peas and yellow rice with beans) were moist. But to our pleasant surprise, the rice also had a kick.
That about sums up our dining experience at Fernandez. Nothing blew us away (Sarah's fritter notwithstanding), but almost everything exceeded our expectations. And we'd like to think we're not easy to please.