Eating Out: Tabella
By Leigh Rivlin
Fresh Side is moving into bigger digs, Chez Albert has become quite the success and the new Amherst Coffee makes the best cappuccinos around. The Amherst dining scene is making moves, and making me very happy in the process.

Tabella, the new tapas restaurant a few doors into the alley behind Amherst Coffee, is a welcome addition to the Amherst food atmosphere. Tabella serves up plates grounded in Spanish classics, but adds a western New England twist to them. Think Pan-Fried Orange Curry Crusted Cod with Spiced Pistachios on Sautéed Kale ($12.50).

Several of you know that I spent last fall in Sevilla, Spain, in the home of the tapas tradition. Tapas are small plates ordered in groups to be shared among friends or between a couple. In Spain, we ordered tapas of fried eggplant with honey (berenjenas con miel), meat or vegetable croquettes (croquetas), dried salted cod (bacalao) or shrimp sautéed with garlic and olive oil (gambas al ajillo). And meals were often accompanied with a complimentary plate of Spanish olives and a few pieces of white bread, perfect for dipping into the leftover olive oil from the shrimp dish. Tabella isn't quite the same experience, of course. We're in Amherst, I know. However, enough of their dishes are reminiscent of real Spanish tapas, and the dishes that aren't traditional are still creative and appealing anyway.

Every item on the menu is intriguing, and it is hard to pick just one, or even just two. I tried one of their two soups: Roasted Pumpkin Soup with Curry Baked Feta ($6). Quite overpriced for such a small bowl, but still a delicious soup. It is not very thick, but this is not to its detriment. The curry-baked feta is creative, but I believe it detracts from the pumpkin flavor-a nice way to prepare feta, but not for a pumpkin soup.

Katie ordered the Warm Balsamic Glazed Brussels Sprout and Chestnut Salad ($7) from the fabulous salad section. Her selection was an innovative combination that makes for a nice salad. The sprouts and chestnuts are tossed with mixed greens in a very tasty balsamic glaze.

From the "Tapas" section, Katie and I ordered the Vegetable Croquettes ($5) and the Ginger Crusted Thai Hot Wings with a Lemongrass Ranch Sauce ($7.50). The croquettes, a combination of summer squash, zucchini, red and green peppers, potato and onion, were delicious. Served warm, the two breaded balls were accompanied by a small salad garnish and a toasted almond and red pepper sauce. Smooth and creamy on the inside, and crunchy on the outside, the croquettes are a must-order. The hot wings were fun as well, even though they are far from traditional tapas. Three wings come with this order, each in a crispy, very tasty crust. The ranch sauce is very nice as well, but the wings are just fine on their own too. Also listed on the Tapas section are Chatham Cod Cakes with Basil Aioli ($7), Fried Green Olives stuffed with Almonds and Feta ($5.50) and Wheel View Farm Flank Steak Crostini with Caramelized Shallot Marmalade ($7), to name a few.

The menu also consists of the "Tapas Plates" section, which showcases larger portions than the Tapas section. What caught my eye the most were the Panfried Cider Glazed Pork Loin ($12.50), Venison Medallion with Spicy Pumpkin Sauce on Truffled Mash ($9.50), Coffee and Chipotle Marinated Wheel View Farm Flank with Currant Demi-Glaze and Savory Biscuit ($14.50) and Panseared Duck Breast with Port Wine Fig Sauce on Savory Polenta Cake ($14).

The new restaurant is in an elegant, chic space with careful lighting and effectively placed mirrors. Additionally, the waitstaff is helpful, but flighty. They are excited to have you there, even when you're wearing a baseball hat and obviously look like a college student.

In terms of fine dining in Amherst, if Chez Albert is full and you do not have a reservation, then you should walk around the corner to Tabella. I may have to revise that statement in a few months, however, if Tabella's popularity continues to grow. I plan on returning to Tabella to explore the rest of the menu. My only qualms were with the overpricing of the small portions, although that tends to be the trend in America's tapas restaurants.

If that doesn't bother you, then get to Tabella. It is best for dates or parental visits, but also a nice, intimate dinner with your girls or your guys if you're into that. I feel as if most guys would pick Antonio's or the Amherst Brewing Company, but if the guys are looking to step it up, maybe pick up that table of girls out for an intimate dinner, then switch it up and go to Tabella. Read over the terrific menu, have fun with the dishes and order a bunch of tapas to sample the different flavors in true Spanish style. And if you beat me back to Tabella, let me know what you think of the apple tart.

Issue 10, Submitted 2006-11-14 23:30:58