As much as I would have preferred to dine outside this past Friday evening (the first tolerable evening in recent memory), I was delighted and impressed with the warm, inviting and transporting ambience of Circa. Tucked away from the main drag of Northampton, Circa is a quiet restaurant, even on a weekend night. When we arrived, we were one of two parties dining at the time. By 8 p.m. when we had finished our meal, the restaurant was near full. Even at full capacity, the noise level in the one-room restaurant is low enough that one can hear even her most soft-spoken of friends.
We requested the table by the window which, even though we could only look at parked cars and the market across the street, isn't the most attractive of spots. However, the carefully placed tulip arrangements and candles on each table, the rust-red walls and matching seat cushions, the soft lighting and the yellow rose bouquets on the bar made every direction a pleasant glance.
Our waitress was a very helpful and quite informative resource. At restaurants, I always ask for the server's recommendations and what dishes are most popular. Most give me a terrible, unexciting response like "Oh, the burger's pretty good" or "Yeah … it's fine." Like that really makes me want to order it. Luckily, our waitress at Circa was excellent in answering questions about the dishes (such as "What is brandade?") and informing us that our choices have been popular among recent guests. The restaurant has just opened under a new chef so the recommendations and ratings are quite recent, but still helpful and all the more exciting.
With such essential information in mind, I ordered the "Bacon wrapped monkfish with cabbage in creamy fumet and fried shallots" ($23). I love monkfish. The first time I had monkfish was in Barcelona at this great restaurant on the beach. It was cooked in a tomato broth with garlic and capers. It was soft and almost viscous. Pure paradise. Yes, this was over a year and a half ago, and yes, I still remember each bite perfectly. Maybe for that reason there will never be a monkfish that can ever measure up to my Barcelona monkfish.
I was hoping Circa's might match the original, but it did not come close. Even if the fish had been cooked in the same broth as the Barcelona fish, I don't think the texture would have been the same. Circa's fish was fine, but did not fall apart in your mouth and smoothly slide down the back of your throat as I had expected it would. The long strips of bacon enveloping the two large chunks of fish were delightfully smoky, and the creamy fumet sauce (a fish stock) in which the cabbage and crunchy fried shallots bathed was light and decadent.
Bryn enjoyed her red snapper with leek risotto and orange glaze with julienned celery ($26). The red snapper filet was layered on top of the creamy, comforting risotto and drizzled with the celery, orange zest and the orange glaze. The glaze was sweet, but not overwhelmingly so. The snapper itself was light, fresh and fantastic.
Katie ordered the "Cod two ways; pan roasted filet with sorrel sauce and brandade" ($24). Now, before you say, "Ew, cod??" you must remember that Valentine cod is not going to be the same as French restaurant cod.
That being said, Katie's dish was really good, and worth facing your cod fears for. The cod is served as a filet as well as in a potato fritter (brandade) with a crunchy exterior and creamy inside. I didn't feel that the green, mild sauce added much to the dish, but it provided an aesthetic appeal.
We were served a basket of fresh breads of wheat and a rustic french loaf with chive butter. We abstained from wine even though the restaurant offers a nice selection. Knowing a trip to Herrell's was to be made after the meal, we passed on dessert as well. However, they offer such appealing, seasonal dishes as Almond-Rhubarb Shortcake and buttermilk ice cream, Chocolate Steamed Pudding with Mint Chocolate Suace as well as a cookie plate, each for $7.
I must say the food took too long to arrive, given there was only the single aforementioned party to serve before us. Additionally, although this is a "fine dining" restaurant, the amount of food served does not merit the price charged, especially when the dishes are very good, but not out of this world.
Circa is worth venturing to for a change, and to feel like you've left the Pioneer Valley and found yourself somewhere in the French hillsides. As far as the food, stick with Chez Albert since it's right in our backyard anyway. And it's a better bang for your buck, and for the amount of time you'll save.
Thinking of la nourriture française for dinner this weekend? Don't hesitate to contact Leigh at lfrivlin@amherst.edu for the picks of the Valley.