The Food Dude: On Recovery from a Hamburglary
By Jasper Zweibel, Staff Writer
It has been about a year now since the terrible tragedy that rocked the Amherst dining scene. I am speaking of course, of the closing down of Fatzo’s. What had once been a haven of delicious burgers, thick shakes and mildly unsettling décor, vanished forever. As the only choice for the true burger aficionado, it left a hole that would not easily be filled. I—and the entire Fatzo-loving community—had been hamburgled.

In my search for a quality replacement, I sampled every grill in town. Judy’s, ABC, even Applebee’s and the like all left me cold. Sure the burgers were passable, perhaps even tasty, but they were nothing more than standard grill fare: overpriced and boring. The Route 9 diner soon proved to be the best option, as at least they offered a solid, diner-quality burger at a great price.

Then, just as I was about to give up on my quest and resign myself to dine on Val burgers for the rest of my days here in the valley, a most unlikely hero emerged from the ashes. Believe it or not, Wings Over Amherst will make you a fantastic burger. I cannot say what first possessed me to stray from their clearly superb wings and venture into the uncharted waters of their burgers. Perhaps I was desperate; perhaps I just wanted to be different. Whatever it was, it turned out to be one of the best ordering decisions of my young life.

The Red Baron burger from Wings is easily in the top five that I have eaten at any restaurant, and is certainly the best from an establishment that prides itself on something other than burgers. It is a half-pound patty topped with lettuce, tomato, cheese, sautéed onions, bacon and finally: a fried egg. Although at first I was skeptical about their unconventional use of egg, I now consider myself foolish to have doubted them. The combination of sautéed onions and bacon is a knockout in its own right, and the addition of the egg makes it a truly marvelous creation.

So, if you can bring yourself to go to Wings and not succumb to the siren song of their Boneless Honey BBQ or, if you just really need a tasty burger, try a Red Baron. I guarantee that you will not regret it. Besides, if you really need the flavor of wings, you can always dip a fry or two in a fellow diner’s excess sauce, an added bonus that lifts the overall dining experience to the next level.

Issue 18, Submitted 2008-02-27 02:58:07