Food Dude: Crouching Rangoon, Hidden Chicken
By Jasper Zweibel, Staff Writer
Chinese food, in its Americanized form, is a thorn in the side of economists. When dining on it at lunchtime, one can find a massive plate of food for under $6. Then, a mere four hours later, the same menu item undergoes a 100-percent increase in price and a paltry 10-percent increase in size. A deliciously economical option is transformed into a wasteful luxury on a daily basis. Seeing as how I rarely have the time to eat out during the day, this inconsistent pricing has essentially wiped Chinese food from my diet, relegating it to the realm of treats that could only be enjoyed in the company of parents and other munificent diners. And so it went until I was told of one of the best kept secrets in the Amherst cuisine scene: Mom’s House Chinese Food Market.

Mom’s House, the name alone inspiring confidence in a good meal, is truly a well kept secret. Not more than two minutes from the Social Quad, this haven of cheap and delicious food somehow eluded me for nearly three years. Perhaps its dubious nature is to blame. After all, Mom’s House is first and foremost a marketplace for imported eastern goods. Despite its superior quality, the kitchen appears to be an afterthought. That being said, this situation is not without fringe benefits. The wide array of Pocky and other Asian treats makes an excellent substitute for a dessert menu. I cannot think of a better way to cap off a delicious Chinese meal than a handful of strawberry Pocky sticks. Having only partaken of the chocolate variety before discovering Mom’s, I must admit that my first bite of a strawberry Pocky stick was like reaching a summit of flavor. I am no longer tempted by the cocoa-based pleasures of the valley, for I have seen the top of the mountain.

What you get at Mom’s House is restaurant quality food at mall prices—$5.75 (tax included) gets you a three-entrée combo meal with your choice of lo mein or rice. And these are no meager offerings. Choosing crab rangoons as one of your entrées gets you three of these oft-overpriced delicacies. Fortunately, the quality matches the quantity. Their General Tso’s chicken is ideal. The staple of American Chinese food, this dish is a delicate balancing act between extremes. It cannot be too small, too big, too crispy, too soft, too spicy, too bland, too greasy or too dry. Rarely does one find an establishment that can skirt all of these pitfalls and offer up a truly wonderful piece of chicken, but Mom’s is undoubtedly just such a place. The lo mein, too, is of the highest echelon. More often than not, the lo mein section of mall-style combo meals consists of a greasy mass of noodles. Mom’s lo mein, however, is perfectly cooked with just the right amount of vegetables to make it a great accompaniment to any entrée. The rangoons are crispy and satisfying, with an excellent ratio of dough to filling. If there is a complaint to be launched at this otherwise wonderful restaurant, it is that the selection of entrées is not exactly plentiful, numbering less than a dozen. But, General Tso’s chicken, lo mein and crab rangoons are all that I want, and certainly all that I need, especially when they are executed with such finesse.

So take heart my penny-pinching brethren. The pleasures of eastern cuisine need no longer be considered out of reach. In fact, they are much closer, and much cheaper and even much more pleasurable than you would think.

Issue 25, Submitted 2008-04-30 04:17:04